2024 BATANES 360 MARATHON: Uphells for Breakfast but Nobody is Complaining. Not even Poor Old Slow BP

 

The jargon in the colorful world of marathoners can have a generous dosage of  bravado.  One such jargon is "Eat those hills for breakfast."  

It is an exhortation often used by fellow runners to pump up their marathon training and confidence level during the actual race itself. 

For the Bicolano Penguin (BP), now a POD ,   tackling hills is  akin to the feeling of a child being ordered to eat his broccoli. The experience is not appealing but necessarily helpful. That is why, for the BP,  the uphills are spelled uphells. The BP is sick of running hills as hell. 

But there are rare instances when the BP gets to enjoy running the uphells. And one such instance is the 2024 Batanes 360 Marathon which just happened June 15, 2024 in the northernmost province of our beloved Philippines.  The BP is one of 12 intrepid marathoners who registered for the race which is around Batan Island,  taking  the runners at the starting point in  Basco (the provincial capital) to the eastern part of the town of Mahatao, to the town of Uyugan, to the town of Ivana,  to the western part of Mahatao and then back to Basco.  Both the start and finish are at the iconic Basco Lighthouse.   

  

The registered runners for the 42K race of the Batanes 360 Marathon in a group photo with the race organizers after the race briefing last June 14.

The few,  the brave,  and the marathoners.  12 runners registered for the 42K category of the Batanes 360 Marathon. 

Race Organizer Eric Lazaro of Northeastern Pacific Sports awarding Certificate of Appreciation to Batanes  officials Cesar Esdicul (PDRRMO representative) and Atty. Alejo Tangaro, Jr. (provincial prosecutor) who are active and generous with their support for the 2024 Batanes 360 Marathon. 

The 2024 batch of the Batanes 360 Marathon at the start area at the Basco Lighthouse with race organizers and race muses. 

True. Running the first half of the 42-km race (in the interest of transparency, the Race Organizer said it is 45 kms) was a smorgasbord of uphells and downhills.  By my count, there are at least 30 inclines in the first 21kms of the Batanes 360 Marathon. The distance of the incline(s)  can range from as short as 30 meters to the monster at Km 12 which extended up to Km 14. 

What made the uphells in Batanes 360 Marathon more palatable for the BP is the picturesque view. Simply priceless.  Words are not enough to capture the nature's beauty that abound in the  Batanes landscape, so here are  a handful of  photos to give the readers a sample of the good blessings of joining the Batanes 360 Marathon:

The Bicolano Penguin running up a hill towards the Fundacion Pacita. To the left is the Pacific Ocean and to the right is the West Phil Sea.  

Traversing the verdant rolling hills connecting Basco to Mahatao. Notice the Batanes hedgerows which are called "liveng."  The liveng is a collection of grass, piled stones or tall rows of reeds that serve multiple purpose:  they protect the crops against the sea breeze, soil erosion, typhoons and serve as boundary lines for the land. 

BP in the vicinity of the iconic Tayid Lighthouse. 

After the "Marlboro Country" section between Mahatao and Uyugan, there is a hill with a forest abundant with native trees.   

The  Imnajbu Road Cliff  offers a scenic view of the sandy coast and the deep blue waters of the Pacific Ocean.   

Beautiful, or in the Ivatan language - mavid a lugar. 

Sadly though, the BP did not get to run the other half of the 42-km race and gaze on many more breathtaking sceneries. Yes, the BP registered a DNF (Did Not Finish) at the 2024 Batanes 360 Marathon.  The 3rd time in the BP's  14 years of running a full mary.  

A few hundred meters after  Km 21, in Barangay Kayvaluganan  in Uyugan municipality, I sat down on a wooden  reclining chair by the side of the road. Out for the count. My hearbeat was spiraling upward and the Bicolano Penguin was bone tired. Prudence dictated that I had to withdraw from the race. Heat stroke was a  grave possibility at that point. 

DNF time. Down and out.  BP sat down on a most inviting wooden chair along the road in Brgy. Kayvaluganan, Uyugan.

Sitting down, I motioned to Aumer to come nearer and told him to radio already the ambulance so that I can be picked up. Aumer is the race volunteer from the Ivatan Riders Club  assigned to escort me with his motorbike.  The race organizer proactively provided one  motorized escort (coming from the Ivatan Riders Club)  for each of the 12 marathoners entered in the 2024 Batanes 360 Marathon. Aumer has been most helpful and patient with me during the marathon. 

Looking back, a key factor in my DNF is the heat.  The race organizers informed us runners during  the race briefing the day before that the heat was expected to go as high as 39 degrees in Batanes during race day.  The 42-km race was started at 4am and by the time I reached Km 12, the sun was already up. No clouds present to lessen the heat.  It was freaking humid, even in the early morning hours.

Heat Index forescast for Basco Batanes on the day of the race.  

Another contributory factor to my DNF is the big elephant in the room.  Literally and figuratively.  I just had my annual physical exams last month. Based on the Asian standards of the BMI, the doctor told me that I am not anymore overweight. The BP is now obese.   I need to loss weight, at least a dozen kgs less. 

Enough of this self-flagellation.  

We would rather talk about the delightul surprises that are  the Batanes 360 Marathon and  the province that hosted the marathon - Breathtaking Bataan.  

And to do this, allow me to share the Q&A the Bicolano Penguin was able to do with a few of the  finishers of the  2024 Batanes 360 Marathon.  

The 2024 Batanes 360 Marathon Champion Boi Lingan still in fine form running the 2nd half of the marathon.  

Leonardo Lingan (Bib#4006)  Originally from Tuguegarao City in Cagayan province, Boi (Mr. Lingan's nickname) is now based in Quezon City. He is a member of many running groups including Lockdown Junkies and Lifewave Runners.    The BP met Boi (Mr. Lingan's nickname) for the 1st time in Iloilo City during a meet-up for  Pinoy Runners PH members running in the 2024 Iloilo Dinagyang Marathon.  Boi did not fare very well in the Iloilo full mary due to some physical concerns but in this year's Batanes 360 Marathon, the senior citizen  was in tip top shape.  Boi was the first runner to cross the finish line. 

BP:  Is this your first time to join Batanes 360 Marathon?  What is the attraction for you that you joined this marathon despite Batanes being far from where you live?

Boi:  First time to join the Batanes 360 Marathon.  I am a nature lover. Sa Batanes nandiyan yung rock formations sa dagat. Ang dagat isa sa mga paborito kung lugar. Yung mga tao mababait pag kausap na super simple living.  Yung cleanliness nila sa paligid din.  Safer na place to roam around since zero crime.  Yung mountain areas nila, gaya ng Marlboro country super linis yung mga surfaces. 

BP:  You are the champion.  To what do you attribute your success here in the Batanes 360 Marathon?  Any particular training you did specific for the Batanes 360 Marathon?  

Boi: Consistency sa training lang 5 times a week.  10km minimum run. Uphill trainings.  Back to back marathons usually ginagawa ko. LSD din once a week with a minimu distance of 21kms.  Just finished full marathon two weeks before the Batanes 360 so loaded na sa training din for full marathon kaya naka chamba. 

BP:  Are there any room for improvement, if any, for the way the Batanes 360 Marathon is organized?

Boi:  For improvement sa Batanes 360. This should start siguro earlier;  mga 3am. Medyo mainit na.  And for flight fares, maybe baka puwedeng kausapin ang airlines as one of the sponsors for runners to have a discount on fares para dumami ang sasali.  Costly kasi ang fare sa flight. 

At the finish line, runner's high evident in the smiles of Atty. Star and Boi, the 1st runner up and Champion.     

Estrella Elamparo (Bib#4001)  Known as Star among her friends and fellow runners, Atty. Elamparo is the Champion of the inaugural  edition of the Batanes 360 Marathon.  For the  2nd edition (2024), she is the 2nd runner to cross the finish line.  The BP first met Star on the PAL flight from Manila International Airport to Basco Airport last week.  In addition to being an accomplished lawyer in the world of disputes and litgations, she writes a weekly sport column in the Daily Tribune called Runner's High .

BP:  This is the 2nd time you run the Batanes 360 Marathon, what is the attraction for you as you keep coming back?

Star:  I don't think anyone needs an excuse to keep going back to Batanes.  It's majestic beauty thankfully remained unspoiled since I first visited more than a decade ago.  The lush landscape, fresh air, stunning vista of the Pacific Ocean and the West Philippine Sea, warm people and the well preserved Ivatan culture provide an unparalleled experience. 

The second reason is the race itself.  Unlike big city races where there are hundreds, if not thousands of people, only a handful of very adventurous souls register for the 42K category. This may be due to the fact that the terrain can be very challenging with its uphills and downhills or maybe it is simply because it is quite expensive to fly into Batanes. The small number of runners foster camaraderie.

Finally, it is a very well organized race. They don't even even have to close off the road for the race because it is more likely to encounter a cow than a vehicle on the road.     

BP:  Two years and twice a podium finisher (overall). To what do you attribute your success here in the Batanes 360 Marathon?  Any particular training you did specific for this marathon? 

Star:  I always say that I don't really train for a specific race. I just train period.  My goal is to always be race ready should an interesting race  come along. 

For Batanes, it helps to practice running on hills.  I think that my trail running helps too.  Also, I already know that the first part of the race has a lot of uphill segments. Especially for the steep ones, I just brisk walk rather than run to preserve my legs for the long race.  I also ensure that I am fueling appropriately.  

BP:  Are there room for improvement(s), if any, for the way the Batanes 360 Marathon is organized?

Star:  Not much really as they're already doing a great job. Just minor points like maybe more ice at the aid stations and to move the gunstart one hour earlier so it won't be so hot towards the latter part of the race. 

Local runner Haidee getting congratulations as she crossed the finish line. 

     

Haidee Caan Sto Tomas (Bib#4005)  Haidee is one of 3 lady runners and  one of 2 local runners from Batanes who joined the 2024 Batanes 360 Marathon.  She is a hard working staff  (DSWD FO2-SWAD) of the province.  May her example, both as a govt employee and a local runner,   serve to inspire many more.   The BP first met her during the race briefing the day before the race.   

 

BP: How many times have you joined the Batanes 360 Marathon?

Haidee:  Since this event was established last year only, I have joined twice already. 

BP:  Why join? 

Haidee:  Running and cycling are my passion, and I want to encourage and motivate especially my kababayans to have a healthy lifestyle and engage into running.  It is my stress reliever also,  Hinahanap na palagi ng katawan ko ang tumakbo o mag bike lalo na at nasanay ako sa weekend rides and runs.  Kumbaga, it's already a part of my weekend and holiday routine.

BP:  Are you born in Batanes?

Haidee:  Yes, I am a true blooded Ivatan, born in Itbayat, Batanes.  I am a Government Employee. I stayed in Tuguegarao City for 20 years.  That is where I met my team who influenced me on biking and running - the Team United Bikers Association of Tuguegarao (UBAT). My running journey started last Sepember 2018. Then as my work brought me back here in Batanes last March 2023, I continued the routine, not as frequent as when I was in Tuguegarao since the demands of my work is tight, yet I still make time to do it as much as possible. 

BP:  As a local, what does it tell you that there are runners from Luzon, Visayas and Mindanao who travel far to join the Batanes 360 Marathon?

Haidee:  I can tell that the Batanes 360 Marathon was joined by marathon enthusiasts, not just only because of their burning passion but they came to join and experience "The Most Iconic and Scenic Marathon Race of Southeast Asia." The #Breathtaking Batanes has a positive impact to runners, pushing their limit to reach the destination as it offers more and more beautiful sceneries. To end it, as local and non-local joiners, we were able to promote also the Local Tourism of Batanes as well.

42km Results of the 2024 Batanes 360 Marathon: 10 finishers, 1 DNF and 1 DNS.  

Well said by our interviewees. The BP echoes their word , especially on the matter of the Local Tourism of Batanes as captured by the hashtag #BreathTakingBatanes.

I like Batanes.  Correction. BP loves Batanes. 

The endearing appeal of Batanes,  for me,  is threefold. 

First, Batanes is blessed with nature at its pristine best. According to the brochure handed over to me by the helpful tourism staff inside the Batanes provincial capitol, Batanes is dubbed "Nature's Playground".  The Philippine government has a law - Republic Act. No. 8991, declaring the  Batanes archipelago (covering an approximate area of 213,578 hectares) as a Protected Landscape and Seascape.  It is rightfully called a nature's playground.  In fact, in the UNESCO World Heritage    list, the Batanes Protected landscapes and seascapes are characterized by a terrestrial, wetland and marine ecosystem. It is described as "...one of the last remaining areas in the Philippines having unique natural phsyiographic features (wave-cut cliffs, cave-like outcrops, seclued white sand beaches) resulting from its position where strong winds  and fast currents have etched out its distinct morphology." In my 3-day visit in the main island of Batan, I have been blessed to view its undulating terrain, limestone cliffs, sandy and boulder beaches and panaromic sceneries. Not just view but taken photos. Here are some of these pictures, mostly breathtaking:

Tourism map of Batanes Islands at the Basco Airport. 

Wave-cut cliffs on the road to Mahatao from Basco.  

The fabled Blue Lagoon in Mahatao. Concealed by rocky cliffs cliffs,  swimming is now allowed for locals and visitors. The tricycle driver  told me that in the Spanish colonial times, only Spanish friars had the privilege of swimming in its clear cool waters.          

Rugged cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean on the road from Mahatao to Ivana.  Remind visitors of the Scottish Highlands (Braveheart)    

The BP taking a view of the verdant rolling hills in the vicinity of the Tayid Lighthouse. At the background is Mount Iraya.  The 1,009 MASL stratovolcano is the northernmost volcano in the Philippines.   

Hilly pastureland. Cows grazing on the green grass covering the hills.  This is Racuh A Payaman in the town of Uyugan.  Locals and tourists call it Marlboro Country. The only ones missing are cowboys riding galloping horses.   

A beach volleyball court on the sandy beach off the Ivana Marine  Reserve.  

BP at Valugan Boulder Beach. No sands but thousands of boulders suspected of being spewed by Mount Iraya in its eruptions in the distant past.  Crashing waves from the mighty Pacific Ocean make it impossible for swimming. 

Trees are man's best friend in Batanes.  The people of Batanes have many uses for their native trees from hardwood lumber to ornamental to medicinal to fencing to windbreaks to hedgerows. 

Second, Batanes is blessed with a rich cultural heritage. Batanes is also a declared ancestral domain of the Ivatans.  According to UNESCO,   "heritage is our legacy from the past, what we live with today, and what we pass on to future generations.  Our cultural and natural heritage are both irreplaceable sources of life and inspiration." The rich cultural heritage of Batanes is visually evident in the Ivatan traditional houses and the Spanish-era churches, showcasing the values of resilience and adaptability in the face of roaring winds, both literal from the Pacific Ocean and figurative from the winds of change.  That rich heritage manifests itself strongly  in the Ivatan people's huge respect for their culture, traditions and religion. One such time-honored tradition of the Ivatan people is their respect and care for the environment, particularly their love of trees.  In my short chats with local residents of Basco and Uyagan, I am impressed with their considerable knowledge of their local trees  like the Arius, Hanot, Savidug, Tipuho Valayvalayan,  and Vutalao. The people of Batanes love their trees because early on, even before sustainability and climate change became a hot topic, the Ivatans know from centuries of dealing with the roaring winds, that trees are nature based solutions. 

The Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception in Basco. Because Batanes was named Provincia de la Concepcion in religious records in the 1700s, the first church was dedicated to Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception.       

The Mission Bell of Basco 1783. Reportedly a gift of King Charles III of Spain to the Ivatan people, the bell was first rung during the First Holy Mass celebrated at Basco on June 8, 1783. 

Resplendent in white, the San Jose de Obrero Church is at the center of Ivana town. Like the other churches in Batanes, the Ivana Church is constructed to withstand typhoons.  

The image of the Blessed Virgin Mary located at the parish blue house inside the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception complex  is a fusion of Catholic religiosity and Ivatan heritage.   

Legacy of Ivatan heroism in the time of the Spanish colonial rule.  A statue of Kenan Aman Dangat in front of the provincial capitol in Basco. He was a Mangpus (chieftain) in  Sabtang who led a revolt from 1785 to 1791. 

Entering the town center of Ivana is a park which has a historical marker  honoring a Batanes guerilla unit that fought Japanese occupiers during WW2.    

Stunning in stone, the Mount Carmel Chapel located on Sitio Tukon, Brgy. Chanarian, Basco sits on a hill with a great view of both the Pacific Ocean and West Phil. Sea.  Established in 2008,  the community that built it  adopted the design of traditional Ivatan house made of stone walls.     

The Ivatans are proud of their Arius tree (Podacarpus ostalis) which the PENRO staff in Basco told me is the provincial tree of Batanes.  Arius is listed among the endangered species of the world because of its limited natural habitat.  But in Batanes, Arius  grows abundantly.     

The Batanes PENRO has a tree nursery in  Basco that houses seedlings of Arius and Vutalao.  With the participation of local communities, the PENRO conducts regular tree planting activities all over the Batanes islands. 

The iconic Batanes wooden tricyle is a regular workhorse for the locals. The wood comes from the Vutalao.  

Third, Batanes is blessed with good people.  And from good people come good governance.  Why do I consider the Ivatans, the people of Batanes,  as good people?  There is this beautifully written blog called Diamond in the Rough  and in a Nov. 14, 2018 article, the author Danica Airelle Marasigan listed down the following good traits of the Ivatans:  honest and trustworthy, hardworking, do not resort to crime, gentle and kind, high respect for their culture, and treat nature as sacred.  The BP totally agrees with the Diamond in the Rough. How do I know? Thru random observations and random conversations with the people of Batanes I got to interact with.  Honesty must be high and crime at a low rate because in my 3 days stay in Basco, I saw only one security guard, the one in Land Bank branch. All the other business establishments like the hotels and restaurants and colleges dont have security guards. Not to mention that inspiring example of the Honesty Store in Ivana.  In terms of random conversation, for example with an old woman who is a store owner along Abad Street in Basco. I bought a hat from  her and she was so kind and accommodating that I ended up buying a few more items from her store like some freshly-caught fish from the sea. Walking in the narrow streets of Basco, the local people greet me with a smile and are very helpful in anwering queries.   An epitome of hard work and respect for their culture are Bert Baletin and his wife who owns and manages the Baletin Hometel where I stayed.  Bert is a great guide on the ins and outs of the island and he took the time to answer all my questions  about the various trees and beautiful tourist attractions.  Likewise, Aumer and the other Ivatan Riders Club volunteers assigned to escort and assist the marathoners were all so patient and generous with their time and effort. Also, the ambulance volunteers who patiently acted as the sweeping crew for the marathoners. 

Hardwork at work.  It is already 6pm on a Saturday and a woman is working on her farm in the hills of Sitio Tukon, Basco. She is harvesting  sweet camote from the rich soil.   

Honesty is the best policy.  At the world-famous Honesty Store in Ivana, the BP dropping pesos in the payment box for the purchase of several Batanes snack items. Starting with a coffee shop, the Honesty Store has now expanded to include a souvenir shop at the back.   

Nationalism on display. Flag retreat by  LGU officials and  staff in Uyugan on a Friday afternoon (5pm).  How many LGUs and govt agencies  in Metro Manila do the flag retreat on a weekly basis? 

Taking care of the environment is a way of life for the Ivatans. At the Batanes provincial capitol, this way of life takes a modernized look in the form of a reverse vending machine.  The battlecry is "Smart Waste Solution to a Waste-less Batanes."

Warm Hospitality and Volunteerism converged in the initiative of the Ivatan Riders Club to provide a motorized escort for each of the Bataan 360 marathoners.  The Ivatan Riders Club volunteers endured 5 to 9 hours under the sun to provide assistance to the long distance runners.     

BP with Bert Balentin and wife. The couple-owners of Baletin Hometel are an epitome of excellent care for  customers.  Appreciate the extra effort in accomodating requests.   

Creativity is rich among the people of Batanes. The Creative Hub was founded in 2014 in Basco  to be a space for local artists and craftsmen. The hub was designed to be a meeting place for art enthusiasts to explore the possibilities of collaboration and brew ideas.

Batanes has produced renowned artists like Pacita Abad, the expressive painter and master of the narrative quilt.  Her bronze scuplture in the garden of Fundacion Pacita welcomes guest to this oasis of the arts.  

I really did enjoyed very much my stay in Batanes.  There is that genuine feeling that visiting Batanes,  joining the Batanes 360 Marathon, enjoying the picturesque sights and getting a feel of the rich culture are  blessings which I  should be thankful for.  

So it is that on my last night in Batanes, the BP attended the 7pm mass at the Cathedral of Immaculate Conception as a way to give thanks to the Good Lord for all these blessings. And in that evening mass, I felt blessed to hear such a relevant and inspiring homily.  The sermon of Fr. Bert  is refreshing and relevant with its realtalk candor.  While preaching to the parishioners the virtues of patience, hope and trust, he good priest gave real-life examples and challenges that people in the diocese have to grapple with. But with humility, Fr. Bert pointed out that these challenges apply to him and his fellow priests too.  All in call, I came out of the doors of the cathedral  after the holy mass feeling light on my feet and with the steps of a purposive person.

The Homily at the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception 

I will trust in the Good Lord that in time, everything will be better.  There is hope in my running.  And BP, as a marathoner,  needs to be patient with the process. The marathon training process that is. Where them uphells again? Time to eat hills for breakfast. Time to train and strategize for the next  Marathon.